Then run the pipe through the wall at the place you've marked. Fit an isolating valve in the pipe, and insert the correct connector for the unit. Providing the power supply Drill a hole in the wall for the electric cable. The size of cable you need depends on the length of the run and the kilowatt rating of the shower unit, so make sure you check the manufacturer's instructions.
Run cable from the shower unit position to a ceiling-mounted double-pole pull-cord switch. An electric shower needs its own dedicated circuit from the consumer unit, and for safety you must get an electrician to make the final connection for you. The circuit must also be protected by an RCD residual current device.
Hold the shower unit in position and mark the fixing holes with a chinagraph pencil. Drill holes at the marked positions with a masonry bit. If you're drilling into a tiled surface, it's a good idea to use a tile bit or stick masking tape on the tiles to stop your bit slipping.
Fit some wall plugs, and squeeze a little sanitary silicone sealant onto each one. Feed the pipe and electric cable through the backplate of the unit. Then screw it to the wall using the screws supplied. Connect the inlet pipe to your shower unit, using a pipe wrench to tighten the compression fitting. Fix the cable to the unit by connecting its live and neutral cores to the terminals marked 'load,' and its earth core to the earth terminal.
Fit the cover according to the manufacturer's instructions, ensuring that the rubber seal is in place. Fit your rail, making sure you put it high enough so your shower head doesn't dangle less than 25mm from the spill-over level of your bath, shower tray, wash basin or bidet.
Otherwise, dirty water might siphon back into your clean water supply. Screw one end of the hose to the handset, making sure you include any washers supplied. Follow the manufacturer's instructions to check everything is working correctly before finally screwing the other end to your shower unit.
Whether your thermostatic mixer shower has got a pump or not, you can supply it via branch pipes from your hot and cold plumbing system. Try to join them as near as possible to your cold and hot water tanks, and run them to the shower position and through the wall. The hot and cold water pressure in a gravity-fed system is determined by the height of the cold water tank above your shower.
Without a pump, you need at least one metre between the bottom of your tank and the shower head to give you a decent flow rate and pressure. If you don't have enough difference in height, you'll either need to raise your cold water tank or fit a pump in your system. NB: Our Homefit service will no longer be available from 9 July Any existing orders will be honoured until 14 December The shower unit must not be fitted where it may be exposed to freezing conditions.
Check the contents to make sure all parts are present. Before starting the mixer installation, make sure all the openings on the valve are carefully covered to prevent any debris getting in while working on the supply pipework. Be sure of the type of wall you have and whether the shower valve is suitable.
When you have decided on the position of the shower and direction of pipe entry for example rising, falling or rear entry , complete the pipework to the shower area. The hot and cold water pipes should be securely attached within the wall or panel to support the valve and prevent movement after installation. Make sure that the compression olives are fitted and all pipework is flushed through before connecting to the shower valve.
Install the outlet fittings refer to your manufacturer's installation guide for specific instructions. Adding a booster pump to your thermostatic mixer shower can more than double the flow rate. You can hide the pump under a bath or tuck it away in an airing cupboard or loft, so you won't see although you might hear it in action.
But remember that you can't connect a pump to a combi boiler or a cold water supply coming straight off the mains. And to get the most out of it, you might have to install a bigger hot water cylinder. Try and set your rail high enough for the tallest person in your house - but not so low that your shower head dangles any less than 25mm from the spill-over level of the shower tray, bath or nearby basin. If it's too low, used water might go back into your household supply. Start by sealing the hole around each inlet pipe with some sanitary silicone sealant.
Turn on the hot and cold taps to flush out the pipework. Then, before you attach your pipe trims, fix a coupler onto each pipe and fit the thermostatic mixer valve using an adjustable spanner. Turn on the hot and cold water to check for any leaks. If everything is watertight you can remove the mixer, fit the chrome pipe trims and re-fit the mixer valve. Fit the lever and holder to the slider rail. Then put the brackets on the ends of the rail and mark the position of the fixing hole for the lowest bracket.
First, use an electronic detector to check carefully that there are no hidden pipes or cables. Then drill where you've marked the position of the lower bracket. Pop in a wall plug and squeeze a spot of sanitary silicone sealant onto it. Remove the slider rail from the brackets and fix the bottom bracket to the bottom hole, using the screw supplied.
To find the position of the top fixing hole, just put the rail back onto the bottom bracket and put the other mounting bracket on the top of the rail. Use a spirit level to check it's vertical, and mark the top fixing hole on the wall. Take the rail off, and drill and plug the wall as you did before. Then screw the top bracket in with the rail in place. We have compiled this excellent guide to doing the whole thing yourself — from figuring out the costs, to the actual installation of your new power shower.
Are you ready for the wash of your life? A lot of this depends on the path you choose. New installations tend to cost more because both the plumbing and electrics within your home will need work, but it also depends on how much of it you are prepared to do yourself. A typical power shower works in much the same way as a mixer shower in that it combines hot and cold water from the appropriate tanks to create the perfect temperature. They also tend to come with a pump to increase pressure , which is why they are so suited to homes with low pressure.
As a result, they tend to work best with gravity fed systems. There are also electric versions of power showers available for you to buy, and these do not need access to both water tanks as they heat the cold water up within the unit.
Again, they work best with the gravity fed systems. While there are some mixer versions that can be compatible with a combi boiler, it is essential that you check with a professional or the manufacturer before you buy and installing a power shower. How long does it usually take to install, replace or repair a shower or shower pull cord? Electric shower normall will take 8 hours for a new installation. There are a couple of things you need to do before you can install a new shower, and each of them is essential.
The first is checking the kilowatt rating as soon as possible. This will give you a rough idea of how much the shower will cost to run because it will tell you how much power it needs. Therefore, you have time to look into options that are cost-effective or have lower power settings. You should also ensure the room is clear and free from clutter. This gives you a good working space, but also ensures that nothing of value will get damaged during the installation process.
You should also have a qualified electrician booked to come and check the finished results. There should be 2 fixing points. With your assistant holding the first panel, position the second glass panel close to the other end of the base quadrant frame. Ask you assistant to support it.
Slide the plastic sealing strip over the base and then slide the panel onto the frame and screw it in place as you did with the first. With the quadrant base fixed, add sealing strip to the tops of each of the fixed glass panels and then position the top section of quadrant frame over each panel and screw it up through the fixings on each side as you did with the base.
Note : The exact assembly method for your chosen shower enclosure may differ slightly so always refer to the manufacturers instructions for full advice.
To get the shower enclosure into position you will certainly need some help. Carefully maneuver the enclosure around any objects and through any opens, being carefully not to knock it and cause any damage. Once in the required area, carefully move it onto the shower tray and slide the ends of the fixed upright panels into the vertical brackets. To make sure the bottom quadrant frame is sitting flat and level on the shower tray, visually inspect it.
There should be no gap. Shower enclosure frame and fixed glass panes positioned in place on shower tray and in vertical wall bracket.
Unpack all the shower door rollers. The movable spring loaded rollers are fixed to the base of the sliding door while the fixed ones go at the top of the door. Fix the top rollers first. The roller section goes on the outside of the concave of the door.
Position each roller over the fixing hole in the front of the glass door, place the cover over the rear of the hole and then screw the fixing screw through the back into the front. Once rollers fixed, both doors need to be hung onto the frame.
Hold the door with both hands and tilt the rollers in towards the recess in the frame. The rollers should drop straight in. Ensure both sets of rollers are fully inserted down into the recess in the frame. Apply a little pressure to the base of the door, pushing the rollers towards the recess in the bottom section of the frame. This is best achieved with a little help and you need both hands for the next task. If no one is around use your foot. To engage the bottom sliding rollers in the base of the frame, push down on the top of each roller.
As they are spring loaded they drop down allowing the rollers to drop into the frame recess and the spring action then pulls them back up holding the door firmly in place but at the same time allowing it to slide smoothly. Check that the gap between the sliding doors is uniform all the way down. If not, the top sliding roller brackets should allow for some adjustment refer to manufacturers instructions for more details. Adjust until required gap is set.
To fix the handles to the sliding shower doors, first unscrew the fixing bracket from the back of each handle if the are supplied fixed together and position handle on the outside of the door and then screw a screw through each fixing bracket and into the handle. Depending on the make and model of your shower enclosure the inner bracket that holds the handle in place may have a cover, clip this into place now.
The shower enclosure door seals prevent any water from the shower escaping outside of the enclosure. There should be 6 strips in total, 2 that are fixed to the sliding doors on the edges where they meet, 1 at the back edge of each door and 1 on each fixed panel where it meets the end of each sliding door. To fit them, simply push them on. In some cases, the sealing strips for the sliding doors will have a magnet running down the edge where they meet to help keep the door sealed when the shower is in use.
If so, this will help identify them. If not, to identify which sealing strip goes where on your shower enclosure, the strips for the door should be angled where they butt together this further aids with sealing. This section effectively fills the gap between the sliding door and the fixed panel. When the door is fully closed, the clip at its end meets the clip on the fixed panel and seals the gap over.
With the shower frame all fitted and the doors closing together as they should the frame now needs to be secured to the brackets. On the inside of each of the upright brackets you should see somewhere between 3 and 6 holes running from top to bottom. Use a mm drill bit to drill out the top hole first. Find the correct screw in your kit, pop it through the provided screw cup and cover and then screw it up and pop a cap cover over it.
Once the first screw is screwed in place, one at a time drill out and screw up the remaining fixing points. Repeat these steps for the other side of the enclosure and bracket.
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